In the early 20th century, an Arkansan real estate developer named C.A. Linebarger had an idea. America was in the throes of the Great Depression, and the worst drought in recorded history was gripping the heartland. Times were tough. But like many folks on the Ozark Plateau, Linebarger owned a cave. And like many folks with caves in their possession during Prohibition, he was going to make good with it. He decided to create a dreamworld, a place where folks could come and stay for a while. The Wonderland Underground Nightclub came to be.

People danced. They caroused. But what made Wonderland different was that it had something very special on its menu: chop suey.

Travel with me to Bella Vista, Arkansas. It’s a story of policy and palate, she dives into to the attitudes that shaped this menu and tourist imaginations.

Produced for the Southern Foodways Alliance